Great omakase, even better value at Yoshinari Hanare in Sri Hartamas

KUALA LUMPUR, March 16 — Saisai Japanese Restaurant was one of my favourite finds last year, and I happily sat at its slightly stuffy counter, chowing down on oden, chicken wing gyoza, and grilled eggplant.

When it closed a few months later, I deeply regretted not visiting more often.

Only later did I learn that it was being replaced by a spin-off of Yoshinari, the popular (and very budget-friendly) Japanese restaurant across the road in Plaza Damas 3.

I resolved to visit sooner rather than later.

Sooner eventually became later, but I finally made it to that same half-shop recently.

This is Yoshinari Hanare: the laundromat next door is still there, but the space has been spruced up, trading its open-air, low-frills feel for something smarter and more polished – thanks to a fresh coat of paint, a door (there wasn’t one before), and a private dining room in the back that seats four.

Like its parent restaurant, Hanare offers two tasting menus at unreal value.

The Omakase Sushi Course (RM150++) features nine pieces of sushi, a sashimi course, a few seasonal dishes, and dessert, while the Dashi Course (RM80++) changes monthly, built around seasonal vegetables and fish.

There’s also a small à la carte menu available for dinner, so you can add a dish or two to your course meal.

To my surprise, Saisai’s chicken wing gyoza makes an appearance – but it makes sense, given that Saisai’s owner’s daughter, who used to work there, is now part of the team at Hanare.

Both courses begin with the appetiser of the day – in this case, a tiny heap of marinated Malabar spinach, crunchy stalks and all, dusted with creamy, nutty crushed walnut.

For the Omakase Sushi Course, seasonal sashimi came next: sea bream, its skin lightly torched and served with a dab of wasabi.

Then came the first three pieces of sushi: akami (lean tuna), kintokidai (red bigeye), and aori ika (bigfin reef squid), which stole the spotlight with a touch of salt and a squeeze of kaffir lime.

A note on the rice in each nigiri – it’s just right.

I’m not being filled up on rice while they skimp on fish.

The balance is spot on, with just enough rice to complement the fish on top.

Proceedings unfolded with more tasty morsels materialising on the plate before me.

The first dish arrives in two parts: a light, shatteringly crisp rockfish tempura wrapped in shiso, followed by a skewer of fatty tuna skin, grilled to a satisfying char – the most unctuous, bold-tasting dish so far.

Next, a slice of lightly torched, slightly sweet beltfish – a gnarly-looking fellow that comes into season in spring – paired with ginger, followed by a luscious piece of chutoro (medium-fatty tuna) and, finally, a buttery piece of flatfish.

Then comes a small bowl of oden, acting as a palate cleanser – though the broth is rich with umami.

Radish, konnyaku, and a bit of chicken provide something to bite on.

The final trio of sushi is as rich and luxe as any ending can be: a bite of engawa (flounder fin), buttery as all hell and torched for that smoky, fatty profile, followed by a firm yet sweet piece of ebi (shrimp), and finally, the pièce de résistance – uni (sea urchin).

After all, an omakase meal is the only time you’re legally allowed to eat uni without looking like a shallow tosser.

Liberated by the knowledge that, for once, you’re not an insufferable snob, you can fully enjoy its lush richness – because there is nothing quite like it.

And you only paid RM150++ for this whole meal!

The Dashi Course holds its own, but it’s not nearly as impressive as the Omakase Sushi Course.

But since it changes every month, it’s worth seeing what’s on offer when you visit.

The beltfish made another appearance, this time in a soup with leek – wrapped around thick but tender pieces, their sweetness drawn out by cooking – floating in a clear yet incredibly smoky and savoury broth that blew me away.

The Italian-style seafood crockpot was less remarkable, but the deep-fried kuzu-manju was a revelation.

This sticky, transparent, mochi-like cube is filled with crunchy bits of what tastes like root vegetables and mushroom, but it’s the contrast of chewy and crispy textures that bowled me over.

To cap it off, a fluffy omelette stuffed with mentaiko (cured pollack roe), served in a bit of broth.

Smaller eaters will be satisfied, but those who share my penchant for gluttony may want to call in reinforcements from the à la carte menu.

Who knows? Some chicken wing gyoza might just do the trick.

* This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.

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* Follow Ethan Lau on Instagram @eatenlau for more musings on food and mildly self-deprecating attempts at humour.