KUALA LUMPUR, March 17 — On days like Mondays (urgh! another work week ahead), I often comfort myself with a bowl of kalguksu.
I call it the Korean pan mee since it’s got handmade noodles in a comforting anchovies broth.
In the case of Soban, a casual eatery located inside 1 Mont Kiara operated by a Korean ajumma and her legion of foreign workers, their kalguksu has another layer of flavour, all thanks to the sweetness from clams and mussels.
It’s that type of broth so flavourful that you want to drink every drop of it.
I guess most of the diners love their kalguksu too as all around me, people are slurping down the chewy noodles.
Go for the Kalguksu Set (RM25) matched with the adorable KKoma Kimbap and banchan.
With the Kalguksu Set, you get mini Kkoma Kimbap (left) and ‘banchan (right) like kimchi and a deep fried roll filled with glass noodles — Pictures by Lee Khang Yi
Unlike those big rolls packed with ingredients, these mini sized kimbap are just a simple seaweed wrap with vegetables that you can pop in your mouth.
There’s also an option to swap out the kalguksu for kimchi sujebi or hand torn noodles.
Japchae (RM17) is one of my favourites and Soban’s version ranks high on my list of best versions for this stir fried noodles.
Taking centre stage is the springy glass noodles dotted with toasted sesame seeds. It’s presented warm, fresh from stir frying it.
Japchae or stir fried glass noodles here have a sweet, savoury flavour — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
As you slurp down the noodles, the sweet, savoury flavour with the sesame oil hits you, making you eat more of it.
It’s also mixed with thin slices of fish cake for protein and vegetables. It almost has a Chinese flavour with the unexpected addition of wood ear fungus, giving it a crunchy element.
One can order a wide variety of dishes here, whether it’s boiling hot soups or even their daily weekday specials.
For a change, I tried the Ojingeo Bokkeum (RM27) or stir fried squid, which came with a bowl of rice and banchan.
Ojingeo Bokkeum has more vegetables than squid but the flavours are on point — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
In terms of ratios, the squid seemed to be playing hide and seek. Instead, vegetables dominated this dish more.
It’s a pity as the sauce has a balanced spiciness that doesn’t overwhelm one’s palate.
Now, the default order in any Korean eatery for me is the pajeon. Here, I was spoiled with choices as they offer a Haemul Pajeon with seafood, Kimchi Jeon and Gamja Jeon.
Gamja Jeon (RM20) was my pick as it’s rare to see potato pancakes here.
Gamja Jeon reminds me of rosti with their well toasted shredded potato pancakes — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
They resemble rosti, where toasty bits of shredded potatoes make this pancake an instant favourite for me.
A soy sauce dip with chopped onions and chillies is also on hand for a shot of saltiness to the pancake.
Don’t miss out on dessert here as Soban offers Hotteok (3 pieces for RM15) or pancakes filled with nuts.
Hotteok is a must for its divine soft pancake filled with brown syrup and peanuts — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
It’s not commonly found here but in Korea, one can find it at roadside stalls.
Eaten piping hot, it’s divine with the soft dough and the melted brown sugar with peanuts.
Solo eaters can opt for their Kimchi Bokkeum Bap set for RM23. The kimchi fried rice is served with one piece of Hotteok.
The eatery works on a well oiled system, where diners order at the counter with a chit indicating their selection. Payment is also made on the spot.
Water is available for free so just help yourself at the counter.
For lunch, the tables that wrap round the eatery are usually packed with people grabbing a quick bite before going back to work.
No frills Soban offers Korean food just like how an ‘ajumma’ will make it in Korea — Picture by Lee Khang Yi
Soban
LG-09 and LG-10,
Lower Ground Floor, 1 Mont Kiara,
Jalan Kiara, Mont Kiara,
Kuala Lumpur.
Open daily: 11am to 8.30pm (Monday to Thursday), 11am to 8.15pm (Friday to Sunday).
Tel: 016-2490130.
• This is an independent review where the writer paid for the meal.
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